Friday, December 11, 2009

Piemonte - foot of the mountains ( piede dei monti)

Probably not too many have heard of the Piemonte region in Italy - though you may have heard of Turin or Asti a couple of the main cities- and maybe if you are a wine person the village names of Barolo, Barbaresco might be familiar. Here is a little bit more about the area and what we have experienced so far.

Italy is divided and subdivided into administrative sections as follows: region, province, municipality, and fraction. Piemonte is a large region in Italy ( other examples are Lombardi with Milan, Lazio with Rome, and Veneto with Venice ). SB: I have yet to understand exactly the boundaries of the state vs region vs the provinces as far as governance - but probably it has to do with politics back when Cavour was working to unite Italy. There is still politics over how autonomous each region is - you can read up in wikipedia or elsewhere to delve into the intricacies of it all.

Piemonte is known for the food and wine. Carlo and I have definitely explored the gastronomic offerings here and have enjoyed it very much. The white truffles are world famous and cost (like$6 per gram so a grape sized one would be about $30). There is always rumors hat here are not possibly enough truffles in Alba for the world demand and so they may be coming from elsewhere. I like this saying about this: "the only one who can guarantee a truffle's origin is the dog".
There are other typical regional dishes that I have written about before. ONe that is popular right now AND goes well with truffle shavings is fonduta. Fonduta is not like Swiss fondue but rather is simply fontina cheese, melted with milk overnight then warmed and combined with egg yolks. Sort of the richest cheese sauce you could imagine. My fav fonduta dish is over a flan with some sort of vege like asparagus, cardoons, or artichokes. Many have it over simple gnocchi.

In order to "combat" the great food, Carlo and I have taken advantage of the hills surrounding the river valleys ( Po, Tanaro, Belbo) for hikes and biking. When the weather is nice, there are just tons of bicyclists on the roads- in the proper spandex and super kitted out road bikes of course! Italians are always attired and equipped splendidly - no matter the activity. Also lots of motocyclists - gain kitted out royally.

On Monday, for example we plan to walk to Barbaresco and have lunch at Antine www.antine.it/ - then walk back home. About 12 K altogether.

The capital of the region is Turin ( Torino). I love Turin. It is perfectly sized for exploring and abut an hour or so away from here. It has some of everything. It was at one time the capital city when the Savoy's were in power so there is a richness and beauty of the city. I love the covered promenades throughout the center around an radiating from the couple of main piazzas. There are a couple of palaces to tour, many upscale shops, several excellent restaurants, and well I have only been there two times so far. Looking forward to more visits! The Savoy also had other minor palaces here and there throughout Piemonte and of course the royal hangers-on has their castles and villas near the Savoys. This makes for some lovely castles and palaces to visit. Also the skyline is beautiful with the castled hilltops everywhere. We found a little castle in Coazzolo http://www.coazzolo.com/ that is also a B&B - lovely soaring rooms to stay in and you can see our house across the river valley!

We have not yet explored the Alps in the North and West of Piemonte but we will go through the next region north (Valle d'Aosta) and into France to Chamonix next week and plan to do skiing in nearby resorts after the holidays next year! I am looking forward also to some hiking and camping in the western parts or perhaps Valle d'Aosta next spring!

Chow for now & Buon Natale, and Felice Anno Nuovo!

JT


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